12 April 2022
Showing posts with label Preve. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preve. Show all posts
07 June 2018
Kaedah JUMPER kereta gear CVT
1. Buka hood
2. Cari fusebox
3. Cabut k8 relay - utk elakkan ECU terbakar
4. Pasang jumper - +ve ke terminal bateri; -ve ke body
5. Pasang balik k8 relay
6. Start ur engine.
23 February 2017
CFE - Turbo Troubleshooting
Kebetulan ada kawan tanya pasal exora turbo problem. Bolehla share kat sini.
Common Turbo Problem = Turbo rosak, oil leaking, turbo jammed, asap putih keluar kat exhaust
.
.
Common root causes:
1.Excessive heat
2.Excessive oil deterioration
3.Others: Debris in oil system, poor oil quality,blockage n etc
.
.
This root causes lead to:
Turbo shaft bent. When turbo shaft bent and wobble at 250,000rpm and above...turbo shaft oil seal will be destroyed = oil will leak = when there’s less oil to lubricate = catastrophic failure and turbo will seize
.
.
1.Excessive heat
Why excessive heat? = oil deteriorate over time of usage. Oil must be changed on time. There’s a reason to the oil change interval. Mineral oil will deteriorate at its design limit near 5000km mileage (normal guideline).
.
When oil deteriorates, it cannot dissipate heat enough. When heat cannot be dissipated, the increase in temperature will cause lower oil pressure and oil film thickness to break.
.
Poor oil film thickness, low oil pressure = poor lubrication = metal to metal contact on rotating parts = failure.
.
.
Solution = Discipline oil change according to specified interval, oil cooler with thermostat, high quality oil, frequent turbo oil line servicing n etc
.
.
2.Excessive oil deterioration
What happen when excessive oil deterioration = it cannot dissipate heat enough. When heat cannot be dissipated, the increase in temperature will cause lower oil pressure and oil film thickness to break. Poor oil film thickness, low oil pressure = poor lubrication = metal to metal contact on rotating parts = failure.
.
.
Solution = Discipline oil change according to specified interval, oil cooler with thermostat, high quality oil, frequent turbo oil line servicing n etc
.
.
Other cases/causes that can reduce the oil quality:
-Water dilution in oil
-Fuel/combustion bi-product dilution in oil
But both of these causes should be rare/severe cases in normal passenger cars. Because water dilution might be caused by internal water leakage in the system. While fuel dilution might be caused by excessive blowby gases/combustion bi-product that escaped through the piston ring during engine operation.
.
.
Just sharing my experience around 10 years in conducting 600 hours Engine Durability Testing and Oil Pressure Study.
27 January 2017
PREVE - simptom2 engin mati semasa tukar gear / RPM tinggi
Jentera cfe turbo. Kalau masa idle tukar gear , enjin mati atau pun start rpm naik dan mati kena start banyak kali.
Ini penerangan/pemerhatian saya.
1) ecu masa idle tak peka nak compensate bila engage gear, gear mula ambil power dari enjin. Kedua rintangan wayar (qualiti vendor proton yg begitu baik lagi... Sarcastic tone) sensor tambah kerana suhu ruang enjin yg tinggi, maka voltan/ signal tak cukup/tak cantik ke ecu maka lah mati.
Solusi, tambah grounding wayar. Boleh dapat dari member mcm Zali hassan, azam dan co. Tambah grounding, semua bacaan wayar sensor akan baik. I dah test setiap satu dgn volt meter , dgn jarum, bacaan tanpa dan dgn grounding cable di suhu operasi enjin.
2,3 tahun dulu, ada pro , kedai kereta cakap ni tak boleh pakai, skerang sudah diam diam... Tak paham suhu dgn rintangan wayar, bacaan sensor yg sensitif ...
2) bateri lemah. Pakai bateri bagus yg poket dapat beli. I pakai yg kena tambah air, murah , ok tahan lama. Kebanyakan bateri kering dinmalaysia , bukan bateri kering maintenance free yg 100 percent design bateri Mf yg asli, sbb itu tak tahan suhu, susah start, bila dah lama, Bateri air kena tambah , bila suhu tinggi, air menyejat instead of expand kat dalam bateri kering yg turun performancenya.
3) reset ecu, cuci ocv, pakai atau tukar minyak eo sampai sesuai. Pakai injector cleaner, cuci trotle body, Semua benda benda nie boleh search kat atas fb, baca jugak komennya sekali. Saya tak pernah cuci ocv, tapi i guna engine flush liqui moly masa tukar eo, dengan harapan, ia cuci ocv dan buang mendapan karbon di liang liang saluran eo. Ocv ni guna eo untuk aktif sistem vvt. So, bila ada chemical flush enjin, ocv pun di bersihkan ... Setakat mana, i tak tahu. Tapi tak ada jerk di enjin saya.
Kadang kala clip sensor ocv dan crank longgar, atau dirty pun satu sebab.
Injector, ocv sikit tak cantik, misalnya ada karbon atau sisa sia petrol, pembakaran yg tidak optimal, pun menyebabkan enjin mati.
4) kalau ada warranty, sc nak tukar ocv, o2 ke , biar mereka tukar. Habis warrantu, jangan buang duit begitu tanpa trouble shoot sendiri. O2 sensor tahan lama, tapi semakin lama, kejituan nya lari. Baru punya mestilah ok. Tapi boleh diselamatkan menggunakan gc
.
5) kalau mileage 70 ribu keatas, enjin getar, taada power, check mounting enjin atau cat con eksos sumbat, eksos berlubang, secara umum nya.
Problem enjin mati bila tukar gear dalam kamus saya, bukan problem lagi. Huhuhuhu
Last sekali, i janji ini boleh bantu, sbb kereta i dan segelintir member sini daru dulu dah ok. Kebanyakan mereka kurang suka komen sini, shy kut.
Harap boleh bantu. Jangan risau. Ada group nie, baca banyak sbb members lama semua dah melaluinya dan dapat cari jalan.
P/s, usah like banyak banyak post senior including i punya,setakat lebih 20 dah cukup. Likes member baru post, kasi dorongan kpd mereka. Usah shy shy. :)
1) ecu masa idle tak peka nak compensate bila engage gear, gear mula ambil power dari enjin. Kedua rintangan wayar (qualiti vendor proton yg begitu baik lagi... Sarcastic tone) sensor tambah kerana suhu ruang enjin yg tinggi, maka voltan/ signal tak cukup/tak cantik ke ecu maka lah mati.
Solusi, tambah grounding wayar. Boleh dapat dari member mcm Zali hassan, azam dan co. Tambah grounding, semua bacaan wayar sensor akan baik. I dah test setiap satu dgn volt meter , dgn jarum, bacaan tanpa dan dgn grounding cable di suhu operasi enjin.
2,3 tahun dulu, ada pro , kedai kereta cakap ni tak boleh pakai, skerang sudah diam diam... Tak paham suhu dgn rintangan wayar, bacaan sensor yg sensitif ...
2) bateri lemah. Pakai bateri bagus yg poket dapat beli. I pakai yg kena tambah air, murah , ok tahan lama. Kebanyakan bateri kering dinmalaysia , bukan bateri kering maintenance free yg 100 percent design bateri Mf yg asli, sbb itu tak tahan suhu, susah start, bila dah lama, Bateri air kena tambah , bila suhu tinggi, air menyejat instead of expand kat dalam bateri kering yg turun performancenya.
3) reset ecu, cuci ocv, pakai atau tukar minyak eo sampai sesuai. Pakai injector cleaner, cuci trotle body, Semua benda benda nie boleh search kat atas fb, baca jugak komennya sekali. Saya tak pernah cuci ocv, tapi i guna engine flush liqui moly masa tukar eo, dengan harapan, ia cuci ocv dan buang mendapan karbon di liang liang saluran eo. Ocv ni guna eo untuk aktif sistem vvt. So, bila ada chemical flush enjin, ocv pun di bersihkan ... Setakat mana, i tak tahu. Tapi tak ada jerk di enjin saya.
Kadang kala clip sensor ocv dan crank longgar, atau dirty pun satu sebab.
Injector, ocv sikit tak cantik, misalnya ada karbon atau sisa sia petrol, pembakaran yg tidak optimal, pun menyebabkan enjin mati.
4) kalau ada warranty, sc nak tukar ocv, o2 ke , biar mereka tukar. Habis warrantu, jangan buang duit begitu tanpa trouble shoot sendiri. O2 sensor tahan lama, tapi semakin lama, kejituan nya lari. Baru punya mestilah ok. Tapi boleh diselamatkan menggunakan gc
.
5) kalau mileage 70 ribu keatas, enjin getar, taada power, check mounting enjin atau cat con eksos sumbat, eksos berlubang, secara umum nya.
Problem enjin mati bila tukar gear dalam kamus saya, bukan problem lagi. Huhuhuhu
Last sekali, i janji ini boleh bantu, sbb kereta i dan segelintir member sini daru dulu dah ok. Kebanyakan mereka kurang suka komen sini, shy kut.
Harap boleh bantu. Jangan risau. Ada group nie, baca banyak sbb members lama semua dah melaluinya dan dapat cari jalan.
P/s, usah like banyak banyak post senior including i punya,setakat lebih 20 dah cukup. Likes member baru post, kasi dorongan kpd mereka. Usah shy shy. :)
20 January 2017
Checklist Proton Preve
Index salah laku Prevé
1. Engine gegar =Mounting
2. Aircond tak sejuk = Fusebox Relay terbakar
3. Kipas susah mati = Relay Kelabu Fusebox Terbakar.
4. Kipas susah hidup = Radiator Fan motor dah RIP.
5. Temperature tinggi = Wire Harness melt/ Fan Radiator RIP.
6. ESC light menyala = Brake Switch Failure/ Tayar pancit
7. Check Engine Light menyala = Banyak sebab. Rujuk SC
8. Battery Low indicator = Read. Then tukar battery.
9. Check Stop lamp indicator = Read. Then tukar lampu brek.
10. Airbag indicator menyala = Check socket bawah seat longgar.
11. Autocruise menyala = Tekan balik bagi padam.
12. Lampu low beam tak terang = Check kaki bulb.
13. Side mirror tak flip = Check variant 1st. Suis fold problem.
14. Power Socket takde power = Check Fuse bawah steering.
15. GPS kelaut = Pakai Waze.
16. Signal Reception Radio bersemut = Tabah.
17. Oil cooler hose leak/burst = Replace ada Recall.
18. Gearknob patah sudu = Gam/ Replace gearknob
19. CVT indicator menyala = overheat,stop and cooldown.
20. Gearlock problem = GLSCU problem. Rujuk SC.
21. Body karat = Warranty body 5 tahun. Rujuk SC
22. Swirl Mark = Refer carwash pakai kain apa.
23. Kereta Susah hidup = Check/Cuci OCV.
24. Brake bunyi / Juddder = Skim Disc/Check pin slider.
25. Boost Problem = Turbo/Diverter Valve.
99. Buku manual tak sempat baca = Ambil masa.
100. Service tak pasti harga = Refer files section.
101. Prevoc tak layan post= Cuba guna Group search Function.
102. Foglamp Menyala = Ini salah laku pemandu, bukan Preve..Pemandu lain harap tabah.
- Feedback dan komen pasti akan lebih berbeza sekiranya anda telah melepasi tahap awal dalam mengenal pasti masalah kereta anda. Dalam masa yang sama juga anda tidak akan panik kerana anda akan jadi lebih bersedia.
Kredit - https://www.facebook.com/syamsul.ridzuan?fref=nf
1. Engine gegar =Mounting
2. Aircond tak sejuk = Fusebox Relay terbakar
3. Kipas susah mati = Relay Kelabu Fusebox Terbakar.
4. Kipas susah hidup = Radiator Fan motor dah RIP.
5. Temperature tinggi = Wire Harness melt/ Fan Radiator RIP.
6. ESC light menyala = Brake Switch Failure/ Tayar pancit
7. Check Engine Light menyala = Banyak sebab. Rujuk SC
8. Battery Low indicator = Read. Then tukar battery.
9. Check Stop lamp indicator = Read. Then tukar lampu brek.
10. Airbag indicator menyala = Check socket bawah seat longgar.
11. Autocruise menyala = Tekan balik bagi padam.
12. Lampu low beam tak terang = Check kaki bulb.
13. Side mirror tak flip = Check variant 1st. Suis fold problem.
14. Power Socket takde power = Check Fuse bawah steering.
15. GPS kelaut = Pakai Waze.
16. Signal Reception Radio bersemut = Tabah.
17. Oil cooler hose leak/burst = Replace ada Recall.
18. Gearknob patah sudu = Gam/ Replace gearknob
19. CVT indicator menyala = overheat,stop and cooldown.
20. Gearlock problem = GLSCU problem. Rujuk SC.
21. Body karat = Warranty body 5 tahun. Rujuk SC
22. Swirl Mark = Refer carwash pakai kain apa.
23. Kereta Susah hidup = Check/Cuci OCV.
24. Brake bunyi / Juddder = Skim Disc/Check pin slider.
25. Boost Problem = Turbo/Diverter Valve.
99. Buku manual tak sempat baca = Ambil masa.
100. Service tak pasti harga = Refer files section.
101. Prevoc tak layan post= Cuba guna Group search Function.
102. Foglamp Menyala = Ini salah laku pemandu, bukan Preve..Pemandu lain harap tabah.
- Feedback dan komen pasti akan lebih berbeza sekiranya anda telah melepasi tahap awal dalam mengenal pasti masalah kereta anda. Dalam masa yang sama juga anda tidak akan panik kerana anda akan jadi lebih bersedia.
Kredit - https://www.facebook.com/syamsul.ridzuan?fref=nf
04 January 2017
CVT Clutch self-learning & CVT clutch adaption
CVT Clutch self-learning & CVT clutch adaption
Clutch self-learning adaptation is a wonderful procedure. It can compensate the tolerance of the product, the ware of the parts inside TR and the torque accuracy of the engine. Clutch adaptation ensures CVT clutch engages and tale off smoothly after car produced and the lifetime of the car.
It has two type of clutch adaptation, end of line adaptation and life time adaptation. OEM and dealers are responsibility for end of line adaptation. Here we descriptive life time adaptation which can perform by our CVT users.
Whenever our CVT users fell clutch engage or take off not so smooth, we can perform clutch adaptation to improve it. CVT clutch adaption can be automatic adjusted when CVT users perform shifting action. Here is the step how a CVT user can perform clutch adaptation:
1)It is must be braking during the whole process and at the same time perform shifting action.
First step, shift to N and wait for 5 seconds.
2)Then shift to D and wait 5 seconds
3)Then shift to N and wait 5 seconds
4)Then shift to R and also wait 5 seconds
5)At last, shift to N.
The above process is a loop of clutch adaption. And normally we should perform 3-5 times clutch adaptation to get its best engage point. Different oil temperatures need to have different values, so it is better if the user can perform clutch adaptation in different temperature. If winter is coming, the temperature getting lower and lower, if CVT user can perform few times clutch adaptation in the morning with cold condition of the car, that’s will be perfect.
2)Then shift to D and wait 5 seconds
3)Then shift to N and wait 5 seconds
4)Then shift to R and also wait 5 seconds
5)At last, shift to N.
The above process is a loop of clutch adaption. And normally we should perform 3-5 times clutch adaptation to get its best engage point. Different oil temperatures need to have different values, so it is better if the user can perform clutch adaptation in different temperature. If winter is coming, the temperature getting lower and lower, if CVT user can perform few times clutch adaptation in the morning with cold condition of the car, that’s will be perfect.
Remarks :
If you replace CVT, TCU and hydraulic unit, you must let profession person like the technician at the dealer to reset old clutch adaption value and do end of line clutch adaptation for your car.
If you replace CVT, TCU and hydraulic unit, you must let profession person like the technician at the dealer to reset old clutch adaption value and do end of line clutch adaptation for your car.
CVT Symptom Troubleshooting
These symptoms DO NOT
trigger Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) or cause the [D] indicator to blink. If
the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) was reported ON or the [D] indicator has
been blinking, check for DTCs. But if the vehicle has one of the systems in the
following chart, check the probable cause(s) for it, in the sequence listed,
until you find the problem.
Symptom
|
Probable cause(s)
|
Notes
|
When you turn the
ignition switch ON (II), the D indicator comes on and stays on or never comes
on at all
|
A problem in the
D indicator circuit
|
|
Shift lever
cannot be moved from P position while you're pushing on the brake pedal
|
A Problem in the
shift lock system (interlock system)
|
|
Ignition key
cannot be moved from ACC (I) position to LOCK (0) position, when you're
pushing it with the shift lever in P position
|
A Problem in the
key interlock system (interlock system)
|
Engine runs, but
vehicle does not move in any position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Start clutch defective Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Input shaft worn or damaged Secondary drive gear or secondary driven gear worn or damaged Final drive or driven gear worn or damaged Sun gear worn or damaged Detent lever assembly worn or damaged Control lever worn or damaged Park pawl and pawl shaft worn or damaged ATF pump worn, binding, or foreign material in ATF pump Low ATF level Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Flywheel drive plate worn or damaged Flywheel assembly defective Engine out put low |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors and transmission range switch connector.
|
Vehicle does not
move in D, S, and L positions
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. |
Forward clutch
defective
Reverse brake piston stuck, worn, or damaged Sun gear worn or damaged Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Manual valve body defective PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Engine output low |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check the D indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
|
Vehicle does not
move in R position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. |
Forward clutch
defective
Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn, or damaged Planetary carrier assembly worn or damaged Sun gear worn or damaged Ring gear worn or damaged Input shaft needle bearing worn or damaged Thrust needle bearing on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Thrust washer on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective Transmission range switch defective |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check the reverse brake pressure.
·
Inspect the brake piston and O-rings. Check the spring
retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the brake end-plate-to-top disc
clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the brake discs and
plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged,
replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the brake
end plate.
·
Check the needle bearing and thrust washers on the
planetary carrier for wear and damage. If the needle bearing or thrust washer
is worn or damaged, replace the bearing or washer, and adjust the clearance
with the thrust shim.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors and transmission range switch connector.
|
Engine stops when
shifted to D from N position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine out put low |
·
Check the reverse brake pressure.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors and transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Engine stops when
shifted to R from N position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Forward clutch defective Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Planetary carrier worn or damaged Thrust needle bearing on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Thrust washer on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine out put low |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the needle bearing and thrust washers on the
planetary carrier for wear and damage. If the needle bearing or thrust washer
is worn or damaged, replace the bearing or washer, and adjust the clearance
with the thrust shim.
·
Check the D indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors and transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
No shift to
higher ratio or lower ratio
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round ATF pump worn, binding, or foreign material in ATF pump Low ATF level ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components
that caused debris.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
|
Poor
acceleration
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective AFT joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Engine out put low |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components
that caused debris.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
|
Flares while
driving
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Forward clutch defective Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF pump.
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid harness connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Excessive shock
when accelerating and decelerating
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Forward clutch defective Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Low ATF level ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Flywheel assembly defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
No engine
braking
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Start clutch defective Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Vehicle does not
creep on a flat road in D, S, and L positions
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Low ATF level ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine out put low |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connectors. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Vehicle moves in N
position; shift cable adjustment is proper
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Forward clutch defective Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Input shaft worn or damaged Input shaft needle bearing seized up, worn or damaged Manual valve lever and pin worn Manual valve body defective |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
|
Late shift to D
from N position, and return to N
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. |
Pulley pressure
feed pipe damaged or out of round
Forward clutch defective Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Low ATF level ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Late shift to R
from N position, and return to N
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. |
Pulley pressure
feed pipe damaged or out of round
Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Reverse brake return springs/retainer worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Low ATF level ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Unstable engine
speed
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
19.
20.
21.
|
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Forward clutch defective Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round ATF pump worn, binding, or foreign material in ATF pump Low ATF level ATF strainer or ATF filter clogged ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Inhibitor solenoid valve defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine output low |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Excessive shock
on starting off
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. |
Forward clutch
defective
Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Low ATF level ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine output low |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Excessive
vibration in D, S, L, and R positions
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Forward clutch
defective
Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round Input shaft worn or damaged ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Inhibitor solenoid valve defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Flywheel drive plate worn or damaged Flywheel assembly defective Engine output low |
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Excessive idle
vibration in N and P positions
|
1.
2. 3. 4. . |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Input shaft worn or damaged Flywheel and drive plate worn or damaged Flywheel assembly defective Engine output low |
Set idle rpm in
gear to the specified idle speed. If still no good, adjust the engine and
transmission mounts.
|
Noise from
transmission in N and P positions
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
7.
8.
|
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Input shaft worn or damaged Planetary carrier worn or damaged Input shaft needle bearing seized up, worn or damaged Thrust needle bearing on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Thrust washer on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged ATF pump worn, binding, or foreign material in ATF pump Flywheel assembly defective |
Check the needle
bearing and thrust washers on the planetary carrier for wear and damage. If
the needle bearing or thrust washer is worn or damaged, replace the bearing
or washer, and adjust the clearance with the thrust shim.
|
Vibration in all
positions
|
1.
2. |
Flywheel and
drive plate worn or damaged
Flywheel assembly defective |
|
Stall speed
high
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out of round Forward clutch defective Reverse brake defective Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Start clutch defective Start clutch end plate clearance incorrect Start clutch feed pipe damaged or out of round ATF pump worn, binding, or foreign material in ATF pump Low ATF level ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Manual valve body defective ATF joint lines worn or damaged Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the forward clutch pressure.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and
O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance,
inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and
plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the
clearance with the clutch end plate.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Stall speed
low
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. |
Intermediate
housing assembly worn or damaged
Pulley pressure feed pipe damaged or out or round Start clutch defective Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Transmission range switch defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective Engine output low |
·
Check the drive and driven pulley pressure, and lubrication
pressure. Measurement of the pressure is low or no pressure, check the ATF
pump.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Judder on
starting off
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. |
Start clutch
defective
ATF deteriorated Valve body assembly defective Control valve body assembly defective Drive and driven pulley speed sensors defective CVT speed sensor defective PCM defective Start clutch control system memory in PCM defective |
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
solenoid connectors.
·
Check ATF level and check ATF cooler lines for leakage and
loose connections. If necessary, flush ATF cooler lines.
·
Calibrate start clutch control system.
|
Noise from
transmission in R position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. |
Reverse brake
defective
Reverse brake piston stuck, worn or damaged Reverse brake return springs/retainer worn or damaged Input shaft worn or damaged Planetary carrier worn or damaged Sun gear worn or damaged Ring gear worn or damaged Input shaft needle bearing seized up, worn or damaged Thrust needle bearing on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Thrust washer on planetary carrier seized up, worn or damaged Detent lever assembly worn or damaged Park pawl and pawl shaft worn or damaged Park pawl spring worn or damaged |
·
Check the reverse brake pressure.
·
Inspect the brake piston and O-rings. Check the spring
retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the brake end-plate-to-top disc
clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the brake discs and
plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged,
replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the brake
end plate.
·
Check the needle bearing and thrust washers on the
planetary carrier for wear and damage. If the needle bearing or thrust washer
is worn or damaged, replace the bearing or washer, and adjust the clearance
with the thrust shim.
|
Shift lever does
not operate smoothly
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. |
Detent lever
assembly worn or damaged
Control lever worn or damaged Park pawl and pawl shaft worn or damaged Park gear worn or damaged Park pawl spring worn or damaged Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Manual valve body defective Transmission range switch defective |
Check for loose
shift cable on the shift lever and the transmission control shaft.
|
Transmission will
not shift into P position, or transmission cannot shift out of P
position
|
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. |
Detent lever
assembly worn or damaged
Control lever worn or damaged Park pawl and pawl shaft worn or damaged Park gear worn or damaged Park pawl spring worn or damaged Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Manual valve lever and pin worn Manual valve body defective PCM defective Transmission range switch defective |
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check the park pawl spring installation.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
|
A/T gear position
indicator does not indicate shift lever positions
|
1.
2. 3. |
Detent lever
assembly worn or damaged
Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Transmission range switch defective |
·
Check for a loose shift cable on the shift lever and the
transmission control shaft.
·
Check the [D] indicator indication, and check for loose
transmission range switch connector.
|
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)